What Not to Cheap Out On When Building a Truck

There are places to save money on a truck build, and there are places where cutting corners costs you more in the long run — or worse, puts you at risk. Here’s the list that matters.


1. Brakes

A full-size truck weighing 5,000–7,000+ lbs loaded needs to be able to stop. Budget rotors and pads wear fast, warp easily, and fade under load. If you tow or haul, this matters even more.

Don’t cheap out: Use a mid-tier or better brake setup. Raybestos, Wagner, EBC, or similar. Slotted or drilled rotors on trucks that tow. Brake fluid flush every 2–3 years.

Where you can save: You don’t need exotic big brake kits for a stock or mildly built truck. Factory caliper sizing is usually adequate.


2. Wheel Bearings

Wheel bearing failure at highway speed is catastrophic. A wheel can separate from the truck. On most GM trucks these are hub assemblies — the failure is usually gradual (growling noise, play in the wheel) but if ignored long enough it becomes dangerous.

Don’t cheap out: Use OEM or Timken/SKF. Cheap hub assemblies from unknown brands often fail in 12–18 months. Spend the extra $30–50.


3. Tie Rods and Ball Joints

Steering and suspension joints are not the place to gamble. A failed outer tie rod at 65 mph is a rollover waiting to happen on a high-CG truck.

Don’t cheap out: Moog Problem Solver or OEM replacements on all steering and suspension components. If you’re lifting the truck, use UCAs from a reputable brand (Cognito, Rough Country on the upper end, ReadyLift minimum).

Where you can save: If you’re doing a budget build and not lifting, stock replacement parts from Moog or equivalent are perfectly adequate.


4. Engine Oil and Filter

The oil in your engine is the single most important maintenance item on any vehicle. Running a cheap filter that can’t maintain pressure, or running oil too long, is how you turn a 300,000-mile engine into a 150,000-mile paperweight.

Don’t cheap out: Use a quality filter (AC Delco, Motorcraft, Wix, Purolator) and stick to your oil change intervals. Synthetic oil on trucks that tow or work hard.


5. Tires on a Lifted Truck

A common mistake: spend $3,000 on a lift kit, then put $400 budget tires on it. Budget all-terrain tires on a truck that sees highway miles wear fast, handle poorly in wet conditions, and can shake badly.

Don’t cheap out: Tires are where the truck meets the road. On a lifted truck especially, a quality AT tire (BFG KO2, Toyo Open Country, Falken Wildpeak) makes a real difference in handling, noise, and durability.

Where you can save: If you’re daily-driving a stock truck on paved roads, a budget highway tire is fine. The calculus changes when you lift and size up.


6. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

On GMT400 and GMT800 trucks with the LS or Vortec engines, exhaust manifold gaskets fail. When they fail you get a tick or leak. Cheap aftermarket gaskets fail again quickly because they can’t handle the thermal cycling.

Don’t cheap out: Use OEM GM or fel-pro gaskets. Also use new manifold bolts — the factory bolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused. This is a job you don’t want to do twice.


7. Lift Kit Components (Especially UCAs)

Covered in the leveling vs. lift discussion, but worth repeating: a cheap 6" lift with no upgraded UCAs, budget shocks, and unknown-brand ball joints is not a deal — it’s a liability. The price difference between a good kit and a budget kit is often $500–1,000, but the difference in longevity and safety is significant.

Don’t cheap out: If you can’t afford a quality full lift kit, run a quality leveling kit and good tires instead. That’s a better truck than a bad lift.


Where You CAN Save Money

  • Body trim and interior parts: Used, OEM pull-a-part pieces are usually fine
  • Air filters: Fram or equivalent standard filters are adequate for most engines
  • Cosmetic stuff: Bed liners, floor mats, seat covers — go budget here
  • Accessory lighting: LEDs for accent/off-road use — brand matters less here
  • Basic maintenance items: Spark plugs, PCV valves, belts — OEM or name brands are all similar

What’s a corner you wish you hadn’t cut? Or something you’ve found a great deal on without sacrificing quality? Post it up.